Climate Change & Coastal Heritage

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An aerial photo showing a green field, promontory fort and dark blue sea

20 February 2023• Blog Posts

Caerfai volunteer blog: Joanne Murphy

News Letter

Digging at Caerfai

I was lucky enough to join the CHERISH funded dig at Caerfai in 2021. This Iron Age promontory site at Penpleidiau is surrounded by sea on 3 sides and protected on the north with not one but 4 (yes, 4!) rampart and ditch structures. Even though this site may seem protected, climate change and its proximity to the sea is causing it to erode away.  As a first investigation into the site, led by DigVentures, none of us really knew what to expect. What we found was spectacular and only raised more questions. Questions that would have to wait to be answered as time ran out and the trenches were back filled.

Jo excavating at Caerfai for the first time in 2021
Jo excavating at Caerfai for the first time in 2021

In 2022, with the dig being crowdfunded by DigVentures, CHERISH provided the wonderful opportunity of field school places. This was to help individuals develop their archaeological skills and understanding with the aim to capture as much information as possible before more of the site is lost. I was lucky enough to have one of these field school placements, and on returning to the site, the first thing I noticed was the amount of erosion that had taken place in one year. Around half a metre had fallen off the Western side. 

A wide angle image of people working on the excavation site at Caerfai on a sunny day
The 2022 trench, with the eroding edge denoted with orange fencing

The second to note was that this year was bigger, better, and bolder. A wider area dug meant a wider picture, and we certainly added to the story of Caerfai revealing several round houses, post holes and hearths, unearthing whett stones, spindle whorls and the most exciting, part of a crucible for smelting ore (which I found!). The most puzzling discovery of all, a beautiful stepped structure hiding at the bottom of one of the rampart ditches, which seemed to continue the length of the ditch. That’s one of many new theories and questions raised that will have to wait for the next dig.

A woman in a red t-shirt crouches in a trench, smiling
Jo excavating a section through the inner rampart in 2022

All in all, I not only got to practice skills taught in previous years but also developed new skills in geophysics, sampling, and recording. The opportunity provided by CHERISH has given me the confidence to join more digs and utilise everything learnt at Caerfai. 

A woman in a red t-shirt crouches at the edge of a trench, smiling at the camera and holding a toy puffin
Jo and Puffty reunited in 2022!

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19 January 2023• Blog Posts

End of Project Conference: Ambition, Delivery and Legacy

News Letter

Join us as we complete the CHERISH project with a final conference to disseminate and contextualise our research within the sector.

On Tuesday 21st March 2023 CHERISH will hold its final conference at the Printworks, Dublin Castle. We will present the final findings, products and lessons learnt from this 6-year, €4.9 million project. Most importantly, this will include launching our Good Practice Guidance: a how-to guide on the project’s “toolkit” for researching at-risk sites.

The day will include papers from members of the team, heritage professionals who have worked with the project, and those who have developed and refined the Toolkit. We will be joined by representatives from a wide variety of businesses, with Trade Stands to explore during refreshment breaks. Lunch and refreshments will be provided, and there will be a drinks reception in the evening 5-7pm as an opportunity to network.

Book here

Join us if you want to hear about the ways that we can approach coastal, intertidal and marine sites at risk from climate change. There will be chance to discuss the future of climate heritage, and how we as heritage professionals can engage with the risks posed by climate change.

If your company or organisation would like a trade stand at the event, please contact us directly at cherish@rcahmw.gov.uk.

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Excavations at Caerfai

24 October 2022• Blog Posts

Caerfai volunteer blog: Eirlys Happs

News Letter

Caerfai excavation 2022

Hello, my name is Eirlys Happs, I’m 19 years old. I’m from Carmarthen in south Wales. Archaeology is a passion of mine.

 

After finishing college and deciding not to attend university yet, I fell into a slump many know well. During this time I began to rekindle my love for the Welsh language and missed speaking it as often as I used to. I attended a Welsh first language primary school despite being raised till then, singly in English. 

A young person standing in a trench, wearing a red shirt and white t-shirt, holding a trowel and hand shovel, with the sea and coast behind them.
Eirlys with their trowel and hand shovel, ready to dig!

Prior to this I had only ever had a passing interest in history and had never considered archaeology past the occasional episode of Time Team. However this set in motion the drive that led me to dig at Caerfai this year. I love celtic cultures, languages and art styles among many aspects of history. 

On my first day I dug in the rampart trench, a deep cross section of the ditch.

Part of four towering banks, which would’ve originally been not only bigger but more grand.

The magnificent earthworks were most likely used to deter invasion and emphasise the wealth or even religiousness of the area and its inhabitants.

A trench with several people working in it, on a green grassy headland with the blue sea behind
The main trench on a sunny day - a hive of activity!

I was delighted to speak with visitors and another cherish funded venturer in Welsh. Sites like this can make many feel very close to their predecessors, Welsh, English or otherwise. Sites like this can make many feel very close to their predecessors, Welsh, English or otherwise. 

Throughout the week I worked in many other areas, but most notably to my aching muscles, backfilling trench 5. I was soon back in the rampart trench for my last two days of cleaning and planning.

Planning, the process of meticulous recording in the trench, was an utterly new skill to me despite having seen it done; it was delicate work to discern contexts (soil deposits) and then measure each one. 

A close up shot of a deep archaeological trench through a rampart
The rampart trench (with Puffty investigating)

While I was sad to leave this site, I gained so much from my week at Caerfai which I admit, I would never have been able to attend without cherish funding. 

I am vastly grateful to all those at cherish who gave a wonderful talk and this much valued opportunity; everyone at dig ventures for creating a welcoming, inclusive and informative environment; last but certainly not least to the Cardiff university students who were constantly warm and humorous despite their hard work. 

A young person in a red shirt holding a toy puffin on a hand shovel
Eirlys and Puffty in the main trench
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The Albion wreck at low tide

11 February 2022• Blog Posts, Project News

The Albion Wreck

News Letter

‘Would you like to spend the day with us on the beach at Marloes, surveying the wreck of The Albion?’  was an invitation I couldn’t refuse.   A month into my new role as PR and Marketing Manager for the CHERISH project, here was a golden opportunity to see the team in action out in the field, doing what they do best. 

So we set off – a team of 6 from the car park at Marloes in Pembrokeshire, dividing the equipment between us and heading for the coast.   We trecked through a field of bemused sheep, onto the Coast Path and were stopped in our tracks by some of the most glorious views in Pembrokeshire.   The sun made a rare appearance for the beginning of February and it felt good to be out and about.

The first stop was at the cliff top opposite Gateholm Island – Marloes beach to our left and to the right, our destination, Albion Sands, named after the wreck we were about to visit and survey.   After an obvious photo opportunity, it was straight to work.  In a precarious position, high above the waves,  Louise Barker, senior archaeological investigator with the CHERISH project,  began drilling a small hole in the rock.  

Archaeologist Louise Barker drilling into the rockface high above the waves
Archaeologist Louise Barker drilling into the rockface high above the waves

“This is an important part of our project” she explained, “placing survey markers at our sites, in order to improve coastal monitoring in the future.   These markers will make it easier for surveyors to return and repeat a survey enabling them to accurately monitor change within a few centimetres.” 

With the small metal marker in place, it was a steep climb down to the beach, with large boulders covered with seaweed providing an extra challenge before we all finally reached the sand.  The day had been chosen for its particularly low tide and the waves were already receding.  Maritime archaeologists Julian Whitewright and Jack Pink, who is also a geophysicist were already pacing the beach, marking out grids for the survey. 

“No-one knows how much of the wreck survives and how much debris has been scattered across the beach.  This geophysics survey should reveal the extent of the wreck” Julian explained. 

Maritime Archaeologist Jack Pink with the magnetometer, Toby Driver preparing to fly the drone
Maritime Archaeologist Jack Pink with the magnetometer, Toby Driver preparing to fly the drone

We could already see a part of the ship – a large iron pole just visible above the waves.  The Albion was a paddle steamer, travelling between Dublin and Bristol in May 1837, carrying a cargo of 50 passengers, around 400 pigs [the number varies according to who you ask!] and a few horses.  Captain Bailey had promised his passengers a fast trip and made the risky decision to sail through Jack Sound instead of the usual route around the back of Skokholm Island.   Accounts vary, but the ship hit a rock and began taking on water, forcing the captain to make the decision to run the ship ashore, crashing at around 5pm on the beach at Marloes

All survived, although not all the pigs made it safely to the top of the cliff – like a scene from the film ‘Whisky Galore!’, there are reports that it was a good year for bacon in the Marloes area! 

The Albion’s crankshaft visible above the waves
The Albion’s crankshaft visible above the waves

Today, the remains of the Albion include the iron frame of the paddle wheel, the plunger from the vacuum pump, a piston rod and much more,  lying beneath the sand.   The paddle steamer was originally around 160 feet long – about the length of 3 railway carriages, and would have revolutionised travel between Ireland and the UK mainland – reducing the time to around a 20 hour trip. 

“It’s a difficult location to get to but worth the effort because this is one of the earliest paddle steamer wrecks in the UK” said Julian, “as far as we know, this is one of the first geophysical survey of a beached wreck in Wales.  By mapping the site, we can understand more about the ship and what happened to it.  It’s a bit like a jigsaw puzzle except you can’t see all the pieces and they’re the wrong way up!”

A piston from one of the ship’s vacuum pumps
A piston from one of the ship’s vacuum pumps

Dr Toby Driver was also busy on the beach, getting ready to fly a drone over the wreck site.  This would provide vital information about the size of the site. 

“There are roughly 6000 shipwrecks dotted around the Welsh coast – but only 6 of them are protected wrecks.  This is one of the aims of the CHERISH project – to recommend more of these sites for designation as protected monuments because they’re such an important part of our coastal heritage.”

Chris Jessop and Louise Barker at the wreck site
Chris Jessop and Louise Barker at the wreck site

As the tide rolled out, more of the wreck was becoming visible – until it was possible to see the whole of the crankshaft and the frame which would have housed the ship’s engine.   We were joined by local community councillor and Albion enthusiast Chris Jessop who has spent many hours studying the wreck and its history.   Chris was an engineer by training and describes himself as a dedicated beachcomber. 

“Bits of the wreck keep coming ashore – and there’s still timber from the ship on the beach.  Whenever there’s a particularly low tide, I’ll come down here to take more photos.    Through our research, we’ve also discovered a working replica of the ship in Sweden which even has the same engine as the Albion.  There’s also a model of the Albion in the Science Museum in London, what they would have called a ‘boardroom model’ to show investors exactly how the ship would be built.”

Louise Barker and Hannah Genders Boyd at the survey point above Albion Sands
Louise Barker and Hannah Genders Boyd at the survey point above Albion Sands

It was also the first visit to a shipwreck site for another new member of the CHERISH team.  Archaeologist Hannah Genders Boyd started at the same time as me, but working as a data analyst with CHERISH, coming to Wales from the University of Edinburgh where she worked as a research assistant.     

“This is a great chance to see climate heritage in action – by surveying this site, we can raise the profile of the wreck and hopefully gain acknowledgement of its national importance.  The wreck is eroding in all that salt water, so it’s a race against time to monitor the site.   Today is definitely one of those ‘I love my job’ days!”  

It was a race against the tide to complete all the survey work.  Jack Pink from Southampton University was picking up the pace, marching across the beach ‘wearing’ a magnetometer – a frame shaped like rugby posts,  the geophysics kit for capturing archaeological features under the sand.

“This is really cool.  I always get nervous when there’s lots of metal at a site, but we’ve covered a good area today.  We’ve had to race against one of the fastest tide races in the world, but I’m glad to say that my feet are still dry!”

The Albion wreck at low tide
The Albion wreck at low tide

With the tide turning and the waves beginning the cover up the wreck and all its secrets again,  it was time to head back over the boulders and up the steep path to the top of the cliff.  The sun was still out, glistening on the water.  A good day of fieldwork completed, with results still to come. 

Buried treasure on a Welsh beach – still revealing its history 185 years after reaching its final resting place in Pembrokeshire.      

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26 January 2022• Blog Posts

Reencaheragh: a fort with monastic views

News Letter

Introduction

Boats leaving Portmagee taking passengers to the Skelligs pass by Reencaheragh Castle on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, Ireland. CHERISH began studying the site because it is being actively eroded by the sea and our research has also revealed the importance of the site’s location and its’ multi-period occupation by high ranking families with links to Spain. We are very grateful to the landowner who gave us permission to survey the site in April 2018.

The castle is built on an earlier promontory fort at Doon Point near the western entrance to Portmagee Channel. The exposed fort has views to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Skellig Michael, and the early monastic site on Long Island lies only 300m to its north. Its’ beautiful coastal location means it is particularly exposed to impacts of climate change, and its erosion is gradually turning this promontory into another island. The CHERISH Project has been recording this site to monitor the rate and extent of change to this site. The record of this site was used to create a 3D model which you can use to take a virtual tour of the site.

Reencaheragh means the headland of the stone fort. The promontory fort projects 190m into the sea and a stone wall was constructed at the point where the promontory connects with the mainland (No. 4 in 3D model). This wall was probably constructed in the early medieval period and the team noticed similar construction to circular cashels such as at Cahergall near Cahersiveen, and Dunbeg on the Dingle Peninsula to the north would have had a similarly straight stone embankment before 19th century repairs (See our Dunbeg blog). The O’Falveys ruled what is today the Iveragh peninsula during the early medieval period and it was part of the regional kingdom of Corca Dhuibhne. This large strategic site in an area of farmland and marine resources suggests occupation by important families.

History of Reencaheragh

Today, the entrance to the promontory fort it is defended by the stone wall and a gatehouse (No. 1 in 3D model). In the 13th century, the MacCarthys and their relatives the O’Sullivans dominated the Iveragh Peninsula. The O’Sullivans had a branch called the MacCrohans, who ruled the area of Reencaheragh. It was probably during their ownership that the gatehouse was built and the stone wall pointed. A castle has been recorded on the site since 1576, during Queen Elizabeth’s reign, when it was called Ryncaharragh. The entrance in the stone wall beside the gatehouse may have been the original entrance.

Aerial view of the site in which you can see the stone wall and the gatehouse which defend the promontory fort
Aerial view of the site in which you can see the stone wall and the gatehouse which defend the promontory fort

The gatehouse which is rectangular in plan (6.75m E-W x 4.3m N-S) was originally two storeys in height. It is accessed through an arched entrance which the Archaeological Survey of Ireland’s record suggests was rebuilt a later date. The entrance lobby is roofed at the north end only by a pair of slabs. On either side of the entrance lobby are two intra-mural chambers (or chambers created in the thickness of the wall). The chamber on the west side contains the staircase while that on the west is roofed with lintels. Both chambers have windows or loops in the N wall, which allow light into the chambers. The staircase give access to the first floor chamber.

Shaded point cloud image of the laser scan survey carried out of the Gatehouse at Reencaheragh
Shaded point cloud image of the laser scan survey carried out of the Gatehouse at Reencaheragh

Inside the fort is a rectangular mound that may have been a house (No. 3 in 3D model). Another possible house is located to the east of the gatehouse where there is a row of upright stones. Our survey found evidence of where boats landed on the beach on the north side of the fort. Here, large stones had been removed  to make a passage where boats could easily be launched without damaging them. Further north on the next promontory were two intriguing low cairns. From here we looked longingly over the narrow channel to Long Island, where we could see the eroding ecclesiastical enclosure and wished we had time to get there – maybe next time!

The erosion of the connection between the promontory and the mainland is clearly visible in this aerial image
The erosion of the connection between the promontory and the mainland is clearly visible in this aerial image

Feelings of yearning for Reencaheragh could also be seen in the records of the inhabitants. Many O’Sullivan family leaders emigrated to Spain during the 17th century. In 1660, Charles II granted Reencaheragh to Trinity College Dublin. Tenant farmers paid rent to Trinity until 1913. Murragh O’Connor’s poem in 1719 indicates his exile from Reencaheragh:

References

King, J. (1911) History of Kerry Part V: The Kerry Bards. Easons and Sons, Dublin.

MacCotter, P. and J. Sheehan (2009) Medieval Iveragh: Kingdoms and Dynasties. In, J. Crowley & J. Sheehan (eds), The Iveragh Peninsula: A Cultural Atlas of the Ring of Kerry. Cork University Press.

Westropp, T. (1912) Notes on the Promontory Forts and Similar Structures of County Kerry. Part V. Iveragh (Valencia to Sr. Finan’s Bay) The Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland 2, No. 4, pp. 285-324

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